铝阳极电镀（英文） 有奖翻译 【恢复】
一份介绍铝阳极电镀的文章，可以镀覆9种颜色，还有些作者的广告在里面。点击此处下载 ourdev_487933.pdf(文件大小:1.91M) (原文件名:Metalworking - How To Anodizing Aluminum.pdf) 资料页角有个连接，是DIY望远镜的爱好者。 献丑一下。
There are basic steps in the anodizing process as illustrated above. They are covered in the anodizing guide and briefly
covered on this page to give you an idea what is required.
上图展示了阳极硬化的基本步骤，令你有初步的了解
Not all steps are needed such as etch and desmut depending on what alloy and the type of surface you expect after anodizing.
根据你期望的界面类型、成色和合金种类，有些步骤如蚀刻和剥黑膜，是不需要的。
l Submerse part in 140 degree cleaner for 5 min, rinse
将零件浸入140度的清洁剂中5分钟，清洗。
l Etch part in room temp caustic solution (lye) 10 to 30 seconds or longer if matte finish is desired, rinse
在室温中用苛性碱溶液腐蚀10～30秒，如需完成后成不光滑就腐蚀更长时间。清洗。
l Desmut part at room temp for 1 to 3 min if previously etched or alloy calls for it such as (2024 alloy), rinse
如之前腐蚀过或者腐蚀合金类型如2024，则进行剥黑膜。清洗。
l Anodize part at 4 to 12 ASF for calculated duration at room temp, rinse, rinse again
在室温下进行4～12ASF 的阳极处理，清洗再清洗。
l Dye part in 140 degree dye for 15 seconds to 15 min, rinse
在140度下染色15秒～15分钟。清洗。
l Seal part in 180 degree Nickal Acetate sealer for 20 min, rinse and hang to dry
在醋酸镍（？）中进行封闭（钝化？）20分钟，清洗，悬挂晾干。
To start, lets take a look at a fairly advanced anodizing line.
先看看一个比较完整的阳极化设备。
The following photos show a medium anodizing station setup:
下面的图片展示一个中型的阳极化工作站：
A plastic tank for sulfuric acid in a sealed vented wood box, power supply, and optional AC unit. Normally an AC unit is not
required, but this system was used continually and needed cooled down in the hot summer weather. First timers would simple
have a 1 gallon bucket as there anodizing tank along with other 1 gallon buckets/containers for dye and sealer tanks.
一罐硫酸放在一个密闭的通风的（？）木盒里，电源和可选择的AC电源。正常来说是不需要AC的，但这个系统在夏天要连续工作和需要冷却。
第一次做的人（？）简单的有4个1加仑的桶做阳极化、染色和密封就可以了。
A cleaner, desmut, and sealer tank along with a sink.
清洗器，剥黑膜，密封（钝化）罐和水槽。
This happens to be a larger 5 gallon line based on simple coolers.
这是5加仑规格和简单冷却器
Below you see a tank for each color dye. A 1 gallon container based line would be much smaller and less expensive. 1 gallon
containers could be lined up to make a compact anodizing line, of course you would be limited to doing only small parts. This
5 gallon anodizing line can do parts up to 17 inches long.
下面你看到各种颜色的染色罐。1加仑的容器会小点和便宜点，工作站也紧凑，当然你只能做小零件。5加仑的可以做17英寸长的零件。
Before we get to the anodizing procedure, let's talk about prepping the aluminum part first.
开始阳极化之前，说说零件的预处理。
Anodizing hides no sins, so put a good finish on your parts before anodizing them.
阳极化没罪，因此阳极化前要做好你的零件。
A good general rule is.... what you see is what you get after the part is anodized; however, anodizing does tend to slightly magnify the surface texture so lean toward a smoother finish when prepping the part. Know that a small amount of the gloss will be lost after it is anodized.
惯常的规则是阳极化后你看到什么就得到什么，然而，阳极化会些微地放大表面的纹理，因此，预处理会得到光滑的结果，但也失去了一点光泽。
For a bright glossy surface on your anodized part, steel wool or wet sand it and then polish it with a buffing wheel using tripoli compound.
需要明亮的光泽，则需要用钢丝球或者湿的砂纸磨，之后用硅藻土抛光轮抛光。
For a matte finish, just steel wool or sand it using an emery cloth.
哑光效果就用钢丝球和砂纸磨就行。
There are other non manual ways to prep the parts surface before anodizing.
其他非手工预处理方法如下。
I use vibratory tumblers with different grades of media for sanding and polishing the parts before anodizing them. This allows a large quantity of parts to be done easily.
我用不同媒介振动翻滚（电动振动式抛光机）的方法磨表面，之后在阳极化前抛光， 这个使加工大量的零件变得容易。
But for quick "one off" parts, buffing on a polishing wheel using tripoli compound is the quickest way. Or, you can just
anodize the part right after machining it. Just make sure you clean the part first. Here is a photo of parts that came right off
my CNC lathe. They were cleaned with simple dish detergent and anodized. No other prep work was done.
但要快速的做1个零件，用硅藻土轮抛光是最快的啦。或者你一加工完零件就马上阳极化，只需要确定你的零件是干净的。下图就是用我的CNC车床加工完的零件，简单的拿洗洁精清洗和阳极化，并没有做其他预处理工作。
Multiple vibratory tumblers can also do finish work.
若干个振动抛光机可以做完整的工作。
Each tumbler can be dedicated to a different type of media.
每一个抛光机可以装不同的磨料
In this case, the first tumbler has 40 lbs of 1/4" plastic triangle media impregnated with silicon carbide to sand the parts.
在这里，第一个装了40磅1/4寸填充满金刚砂的塑料三角形磨料。
This tumbler runs wet and requires a flow-through water system to flush the debris out of the media.
这个抛光机需要流动的水来冲走磨料的碎片。
It runs anywhere from 12-48 hours, depending on the surface required.
依据界面要求运行12～48小时。
It will remove mill/machine marks and deburs all edges.
去除磨、机加工的痕迹和边缘附着物。
The second and third tumblers use dry polishing media. Rougue treated walnut shell produces a bright mirror-like surface after about 72 hours. 第二、三个抛光机使用干磨料，用（XX处理过的）胡桃壳磨72小时后得到镜面效果。
Each tumbler sequence takes between 12-96 hours to prep the surface.
每个抛光机需要12～96小时去处理工件表面。
It is a slow process but many parts can be done without supervision or sweat.
这是一个缓慢的工序，但很多工件无需费心就能处理好。
The tumblers and the media used in them are not cheap, so unless you need to do hundreds of parts at a time, I would suggest buffing them by hand.
那些东西都不便宜，除非你一次处理上百个工件，否则我建议你还是用手吧。
I cover vibratory tumblers, media, and how to build them in the new 2004 Anodizing Booklet. I even show how to make your own tumblers.
在那本“2004阳极化”书里我教你如何做抛光机和磨料。
-----Stripping or restoring existing anodized parts-----
剥离或者回复已做阳极化的工件
You can strip off the existing anodized layer from any anodized part by placing the part in a caustic solution for an hour or
so.
你可以从任何以阳极化的工件剥离阳极化层。只需要放到苛性碱里一小时左右。
Just mix a few tablespoons of lye and water in a plastic container.
只需在容器里混合一汤匙左右的碱液和水。
Wear eye protection and rubber gloves for this procedure!!
戴上保护眼镜和橡胶手套
Place the part in the solution and monitor its progress.
放工件到溶液里并监视着处理过程。
The Lye will dissolve the old anodized layer, about .001" thick.
碱液会溶解就阳极化层大概0.001寸厚。
It takes a while for it to start breaking through the layer.
等一会儿就开始打破阳极化层。
It's a little slow at first.
开始的时候是缓慢的。
The first ten minutes or so not much action will be seen.
头10分钟左右没有什么可见的反应。
Bubbles and smut will rise up as an indicator of its progress.
泡泡和灰尘（脱落的膜？）上升指示着正在反应。
It is a good idea to help the process along by wiping the smut off the part to allow the acid to get to fresh aluminum.
擦干净灰尘对酸能接触到新鲜的铝有很大帮助。
Just wipe off the part with a rag every 5-10 minutes until the old layer is completely gone (wear gloves and goggles).
每5～10分钟用抹布擦拭一下。（记得戴保护眼镜和手套）
Only bare aluminum should be seen when the part is finished.
直至铝完全暴露。
If the aluminum part turns a dark color then it needs to be desmutted due to the alloy type.
如果铝工件变黑，则需要剥黑膜。因为这是铝合金。
For example, 2024 aluminum alloy has 5% copper in it.
举个例子，2024铝合金变黑是因为有5％铜在里面。
The lye eats the aluminum off the surface but leaves the copper behind which in turn tarnishes to a dark color.
铜在碱液吃了铝之后失去光泽而变黑。
Desmut is the opposite of a caustic solution such as lye.
剥黑膜就是用相反的苛性碱溶液。
Desmut (normally ferric acid based) eats the non aluminum metals off the surface presenting a purer aluminum surface to be
anodized.
剥黑膜溶液（通常是铁基的。三氯化铁？）吃调铝表面的非铝金属
I include desmut in the advanced anodizing kit for folks doing unknown or non typical 6000 series alloys.
我的阳极化车间包含了剥黑膜工序，来做那些未知的或者非6000系列合金的阳极化。
It could come in handy and does not hurt to use it on all aluminum alloys.
这很容易和不会阻碍使用所有的铝合金。
Ok, back to stripping our part--
继续剥离工作。 厉害，这也能找到啊 期待中文实践版 太好了，谢谢testcode testcode厉害啊，真有能人呀~~ 具体网页：
http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.html
玩玩，开个头...
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铝阳极电镀
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The following procedure is for anodizing aluminum parts. Anodizing will protect the aluminum parts by making the surface much harder than natural aluminum. Aluminum oxide is grown out of the surface during anodizing and then becomes aluminum hydrate that is extremely hard. The porous nature of the anodized layer allows the product to be dyed any color that is required. The method I describe is Type II anodizing (room temperature) and gives an anodized layer of .0002"to .001" (half of which is grown into the surface and half out of the surface). Parts anodized will become slightly larger by about .0005" Type III (hard coat) anodizing is done at much colder temperatures and at higher current densities and can reach thicknesses of .002". Type III anodized surfaces can typically only be dyed black or dark green due to the denser pore size. I do not cover the hard coat procedure because it is not in the "home brew" category due to the colder acid temperature and high current density that would be required to perform it. The anodizing guide will show you how to perform the more popular Type II anodizing (Room Temp) using the home brew hanging wire method with materials found at typical hardware and auto parts stores (bare bones method). Almost everything you need can be found locally except anodizing dyes and sealer which I sell small quantities of on this site.
下面是介绍零部件的铝阳极氧化的流程。铝阳极氧化过程将保护铝制部件，使其表面比自然铝更坚硬。铝的氧化过程是在从其表面开始逐步向内深入，然后形成极其坚硬的氢氧化铝。阳极氧化层的多孔的属性，使产品能够染上任何必要的颜色。我将描述的方法是II型阳极氧化（室温下） ，生成的阳极氧化层的厚度为0.0002 “到0.001 ” 之间（氧化层其中一半是已渗入表面，而另外的一半从表面上） 。 阳极氧化处理过的零件，将略微增大0.0005 “。 III型（电镀）阳极氧化是在更冷的温度和较高的电流下，生成的（阳极氧化层）厚度可以达到的0.002 ”。 III型阳极氧化表面由于密集的孔径大小，通常可以只染黑色或深色绿色。 我不涵盖电镀的流程，由于它的工艺流程的酸要求较低的温度下（反应），而且需要很高电流，因此不属于“在家”可实现的类型。这份阳极氧化的指南就将介绍如何实现更易行的II型阳极氧化法（室温下），即“家庭挂线浸泡法”，利用在一般通用的硬件和汽车零部件商店所能够买到的材料来实现。几乎所有您需要的材料可以在当地买到，除了氧化染料和密封材料。在此网站，我有出售少量。
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(原文件名:car1.jpg)
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Here are a few parts on my brother-in-laws project car that were done with this system. The red pulley and water pump housing were anodized red (anodizing is not just for hose fittings). The photo below shows an after market skid plate that was anodized and dyed green to match the bike's colors.
这里展示的的一些零件是我的姐夫汽车上的，用上述的阳极电镀法电镀的。 红色的皮带轮和水泵罩阳极电镀为红色（阳极氧化不仅是为软管接头） 。 以下的照片显示一款用于销售后市场的自行车车底护板，阳极电镀并且染色绿色，以符合自行车的颜色。
Yes, just about anything aluminum can be anodized, even these aluminum horse shoes! However Cast aluminum does not tend to look good due to the impurities in it. For the most part, billet aluminum alloys anodized best.
是的，几乎只是所有的可以铝制品都可以阳极氧化，即使是这些铝马鞋！ 然而铸铝由于它含杂质，阳极电镀结果并不太好。 在大多数情况下，铝坯合金阳极氧化的效果是最好的。
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(原文件名:horseshoe.jpg)
A little custom color on your bike parts gives it a one-of-a-kind look. It is possible to do 2 tone color anodizing as these front fork tubes show - blue on the inside and gold on the outside. The anodizing guide discusses multi color anodizing methods.
自行车零件上带上一点自己颜色，给它一个另类的外观。阳极氧化电镀甚至能够做到两种颜色的效果。如图所示的叉管-蓝的内部和黄金在外面。 在本指南中，也将讨论了复合颜色的阳极氧化电镀的方法。
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Here is a sprocket that was striped of its original black anodizing and reanodized gold for a local drag bike. We also did the triple clamp in blue.
这是一个自行车的链齿轮，它原先是阳极氧化为黑色，经过重新氧化电镀为金黄色。 我们同时也把三重钳氧化电镀为蓝色。
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Notice the red battery tie down clamp, we anodized it red then engraved a logo into the red anodizing with our CNC machine
请注意上图红色电池牵制钳，我们先氧化电镀为红色，然后用我们的数控机床在红色阳极氧化面上刻一个标识。
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We andodized some custom gun parts in blue with a nice matte finish.
我们氧化电镀的的一些GUN的零件，对蓝色的电镀表面并做仔细的无光泽化处理。
本贴被 testcode 编辑过,最后修改时间：2008-11-08,06:10:52. 挺高深的东西！！看不懂！
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